With great privilege we share with you one of the several informative notes from Renier Perfumes, on this occasion the expert and perfumer Miguel Matos, part of the Fragrantica team expresses his point of view on the latest launch from Renier.
"For me, the narcissus is one of the most beautiful flowers, and I love perfumes that have the narcissus as the main note. Unfortunately, I find the narcissus a difficult ingredient to work with, whether natural or with a synthetic base, it raises several challenges to the perfumer. It is difficult to find new daffodil perfumes, also because the note is considered old-fashioned, not everyone will like it, and therefore created a product that is not so easy to sell. But among all the novelties In this year's Esxence commercials, I came across an absolute masterpiece by perfumer Renier R. Mendez: Musky Rain. It's a gorgeous daffodil with the subtitle "Naughty Intimacy." I was amazed.
I am going to say it without reservation: Musky Rain is one of the best daffodil fragrances I have ever smelled, I consider it in the top 4, along with Romanza by Masque Milano, Narcisse Noir by Caron and Soliflore Narcissus by Dame Perfumery.
When daffodils are mentioned, several things are expected. However, Musky Rain is not obvious. In fact, it is a rich and sweet amber scent. It begins already animalic, with something that I would describe as indolic. When I see the official pyramid, I don't actually recognize the notes I smell in the opening. I would say that it is more of a structure centered at the base, and Narcissus is a flower planted in the center, but this flower sort of transforms into several different petals, each one with something to say. I feel this Naughty Intimacy as something overflowing with resins, connected with the sweet side of the narcissus, but also with the sweetness of the benzoin that shines here when it joins the sweetness of the flower. The dirty side of the daffodil is also expanded with the civet, and it really seems like it is a holographic image of a flower, becoming something much more than we expect.Narcissus
The strong amber character of Musky Rain reminds me of Obsession or Must de Cartier. To contrast the sweet resins and vanilla, there is the green side of the daffodil, and we already know that the amber and the green notes is a juxtaposition that creates wonders like the previous examples. The animalic tones also reference other works of art such as Bal a Versailles or even Tabu, although in a softer tone. "I would say narcotic is the perfect word to describe this aroma."
- Fragrantica, April 2023.
